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Coffee - A Neapolitan love affair

February 6, 2024 · 6 min read

Coffee is deeply ingrained in the fabric of this vibrant city. Naples holds a special place in the archives of coffee history, and its coffee culture is a blend of tradition, passion, and creative brewing methods.

Coffee arrived in Naples during the 17th century, introduced by traders from the Middle East. By the 18th century, coffeehouses began to proliferate, becoming crucial hubs for social interaction, discussion, and intellectual exchange.

Cuccuma or "Napoletana" (Neapolitan Coffee Pot)

When folks think of making Italian coffee at home, what often comes to mind is the Moka coffee pot. You know it as the Bialetti, the aluminum chassis, octaganal shaped brewer. Invented in the 1930s in Northern Italy, it is the quintessential at-home method that conveniently brews great, strong coffee from the stovetop.

What most folks don't realize, is there was a coffee pot before the Moka dating back to the 18th century in Naples, by the name of "Cuccuma" or "Napoletana" (see picture above). Unlike the steam method of the Moka, the Cuccuma operates on a flip brewing method. Consisting of two chambers, one for water and one for ground coffee. The pot is flipped during the brewing process to allow the water to drip through the coffee grounds. Think of a cross-breed between the Moka and a french press. This method is a bit slower then the Moka which came after. Click here for a video of the process.

In modern day, the Moka has largely replaced the Cuccuma method, as it produces a consistent, quality result in less time and with less complexity.

Espresso

Naples is widely recognized as one of the birthplaces of espresso. In the early 20th century, the first espresso machine, "Caffe Espresso" was invented in Naples. This innovation revolutionized coffee consumption globally and remains a cornerstone of Italian coffee culture.

The Neapolitan-blend espresso is a hallmark of Naples' coffee culture: intense flavor, a thick and creamy crema on top. The beans are a blend of robusta and arabica, usually roasted dark for that bold flavor. Neapolitan blends also tend to run higher in caffeine, thanks to the higher ratio of robusta beans versus arabica.

Some of the most popular brands from Naples are Kimbo, Passalacqua, Caffe' Borbone, Moreno, and Toraldo.

Caffe' Bar Tradition

Naples is known for its caffe' bar culture, where coffee isn't just a drink, it's a daily ritual. Locals stand at the counter, knock back their espresso in a minute or two, and chat with the barista or whoever's next to them.

The preparation of coffee in Naples is an art form. Baristas, often referred to as caffeieri, are skilled craftsmen who meticulously craft each espresso, ensuring that the flavor and consistency meet the highest standards of Neapolitan caffe'.

In the morning, you will find locals taking a coffee and a graffa (Italian donut) or cornetto (Italian version of a croissant usually filled with jelly, various creams, or chocolate) to start their day. And in the south of Italy, a glass of water comes complimentary with your coffee... do you want still or sparkling?

It is common practice to leave a coin, 10 or 20 cents, as a tip for the barista, usually placed down as a paperweight to your receipt on the bar when ordering.

Caffe' Sospeso

You may have also heard of "Caffe' Sospeso," or suspended coffee. The story goes that it started in Naples during World War 2, when someone better off would buy two coffees at the bar, one for themselves and a second left "suspended" for the next person who couldn't afford one. It caught on around the city and beyond as a quiet way to help people out, especially during hard times, and the idea has since spread to pastries and even full meals. The whole point is the anonymity: you give with no expectation of anything back. It's a small, ongoing reminder of solidarity.

Coffee drink varieties

While espresso, or simply un caffe', is the main staple at the bar, various coffee drinks are offered in Naples. A 'ristretto' is a short pulled espresso making it even more dense and flavorful than the 'caffe' normale.' 'Caffe' lungo' is the opposite, as the barista allows more water to pass for a larger and less intense shot of espresso. A 'macchiato' is a shot of espresso with a tiny bit of frothy milk served in the same little espresso cup (forget about the sugary Starbucks drink!) And everyone knows a Cappuccino, but be sure to have it in the morning, as here it is frowned upon to drink this delicious beverage after 12PM.

In summer, a popular order is a thick, cold, milky coffee from the spinning machine behind the bar, called a 'caffe del nonno.' It's somewhere between a coffee and a gelato. Add a shot of espresso and you've got the ultimate Neapolitan summer pick-me-up.

You may notice that some bars have a bowl of sugary cream sitting near the espresso machine, which is a blend of sugar mixed with espresso. For the Neapolitan espresso purists, a dollop of this cream to compliment your coffee will send you buzzing into coffee nirvana.

Coffee bars will often post which coffee brand they use right outside, since customers pick a cafe' partly based on that. With that kind of attention to detail, it's no surprise Naples has some of the best coffee in Italy. Neapolitans know it, too, and they're not shy about saying so.

Breakfast culture in Naples

Left to right: Graffa, Sfogliatella, Cornetto

An Italian breakfast is typically light and sweet. Many people eat crunchy biscuits with milk, a cornetto or brioche with jelly or nutella. For a breakfast treat, Neapolitans will take a stroll to get a graffa (doughnut) or sfogliatella, a sweet ricotta/cream filled pastry that may be the embodiment of the Neapolitan pastry. The sfogliatella comes in 2 varieties "riccia," which is crunchy/flaky or "frolla" a traditional pastry dough. The ricotta/cream filling is the same between the two, only the texture of the outside changes.

American breakfast/brunch has slowly been gaining steam thanks to the influence of the international brunch culture, which has permeated most cities in the modern world.

HelpmeNapoli's recommended breakfast & coffee spots

Pitera' - Chiaia (Via San Pasquale) - Coffee and pastries.

Chalet Ciro 1952 - Mergellina - The best graffa. Period.

Sfogliatelle calde Attanasio - Piazza Garibaldi -Arguably the best sfogliatelle in Naples near the central train station

Exitus Cafe' - Pozzuoli (Piazza della Repubblica) - Excellent coffee drinks to take away

Lazzarelle Bistrot - Centro Storico (Galleria Principe) - great vibes, great coffee and food inside a nice galleria

The Florist Bar - Sanita' (via Michele Tenore) - cute outdoor environment, homemade quality, garden

Gambrinus - Piazza Plebliscito - The most famous and most luxurious cafe' in Naples.

Brunch Spots - While brunch hasn't been mastered in Naples, here are some spots that can help scratch the itch...

Birdy's Bakery - Chiaia

Stairs - Vomero

Officina Ba-Bar - Santa Lucia (Chiaia)

It's : Coffee & Wine Bistrot - Centro Storico

Craving an alternative breakfast or brunch? Try 'Bowl Napoli' for an Acai Bowl in the Historic Center of Naples.

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